RESTORATION PART 4.
It’s all about sending, buying, cleaning, restoring and getting parts ready for the rebuild now.
Be sure to use reputable re-finishers and repairers. There are lots of cowboys out there!!!
Try to attack this, one part at a time. Grab a seat, get comfortable and some decent music on; it all helps when you are doing fiddley things.
First have a good look through your parts box’s and identify the parts needed. Use the parts book you have. The more information you can give the supplier (part numbers and descriptions), the better your chances of receiving the correct bits the first time. As you get into the build, you will probably need more parts.
Time to take a look at the wheels, if they’re going for a rebuild. This is what I do! Call the builder, ask if they’ll clean and polish the hubs, and replace the bearings whilst they have the wheel’s. Maybe fit new tyres as well! It’s good to get the wheels finished and ready for the build, whilst you do other things. However, if they don’t polish, you will need to ask them to strip the wheels, as they will need the offset measurement for the re-build. Then take the hubs to a polisher with all your other bits, if they need doing. The choice of rims and spokes is yours!!!
Next is the wiring loom, if you decide not to buy new. Clean the loom thoroughly but carefully. Clean or replace any dirty or damaged connections or wires. Be careful to note the colour of the wire and the sex of the connection. Make it ready for the rebuild. Check all parts that will be connected to the loom and make good also.
Now front forks. Check for pitting and that they are straight. If bent, it will usually be the upper tubes. Check with your parts supplier, see if the tubes are available. If you’re replacing them, order seals and oil at the same time. If the upper tubes are not available and are slightly bent and pitted, you may be able to save them. They can be straightened and hard chromed if not creased and it is well worth the cost if you can’t get new.
Engine now. If you need to complete a rebuild. Once you’ve it stripped, may be time to organise polishing, painting, vapor blasting and other finishes if you want to go that far. I would be ordering all the visible nuts, screws and bolts at this time also. My thinking is, if you are going to this trouble, what’s the point putting old and horrible fixings into a new looking engine. Even if they’re not standard fixings. It’s the same for the rest of the bike, as far as I’m concerned but that really is up to you. You should use a blaster that has experience, the last thing you want is blocked oil ways.
Order decals for the frame and get the paintwork off to the painters. Use a reputable painter. It’s always best, to get an old tank and metal bits blasted if possible. Get the painter to colour match and detail the design before the parts are blasted.
I like the frame, swing arm, brackets and many other parts powder-coated. Remember to remove the bearings and other parts from the frame. Ask the powder coater if they will do any miner repairs, if not get them done as they require, before they coat the parts.
Send the polishing and chroming parts away to be finished. Check the chrome specialist will do any repairs before they chrome, or you may be very disappointed when you receive your parts back. You can wait a long time for chroming.
All the other parts should go to be restored and re-conditioned.
Check the seat. You can normally get covers, seat bases, sponges or even a new seat if it works out better to do that.
I’ve tried to cover all the major parts. The rest is up to you. Try to enjoy the process, the more you do the better the end result will be!!
And Finally – Remember To Keep details of Where, When and What you sent everything (including postage receipts)!
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